Cost of Patio Doors (In 2018)

Patio doors – a great way to ‘bring the outside in’ and provide an attractive alternative to single doors or windows. They’re typically found at the opening to the garden or patio, hence the name, although in some larger properties they are used as dividers between rooms.

The style, size, and finish you choose will affect the price of your door, so it’s important to consider these factors when deciding the patio door style you want.

Types of Patio Doors

There are several different types of patio door which you can choose from to ensure both security and accessibility, whether they are to be installed as an entrance to a new extension, or within an existing divide between rooms.

French Doors
This style is equally at home as an exterior door or as a partition between rooms in larger homes. They are outward-opening double doors.They are made from UPVC (unplasticised polyvinyl chloride) – this is a durable building material used primarily for window sills, frames, and the construction of conservatory roofs. Depending on your budget, you can choose (at further cost) to increase the amount of glass in your French doors, reducing the amount of uPVC used.

In terms of security, many French doors pass the stringent PAS024 testing regulations, as they can feature multi-lock systems.

They also offer the option for opening one door at a time, making them a popular choice in adverse weather conditions or in situations where immediate access is the primary function.

Patio Doors (sliding)
This design of this type of door is a striking one, consisting of glass panes sliding along horizontal runners; sometimes in either direction; in order to facilitate access to and from the property.They’re fantastic as a space-saving solution, as unlike French or Bi-Fold doors, they do not open into the outside space. Similarly, they can’t be blown shut, which reduces the risk of accidental injury or unnecessary wear and tear.

Sliding patio doors fit well into wider divides and openings and can be constructed from aluminium for greater sizing options, allowing you to customise the ratio of aluminium to glass.

These days, you may be able to find sliding door options which allow for three or four individual panes on separate runners – this will increase the level of customisability you can apply to your installation.

Sliding patio doors feature multipoint locks with overlapping panels, which is an excellent security feature.

Bi-Folding Doors
As an alternative space saving option, and for wider access spaces, choosing to install bi-fold doors is a great way to open up your home. They open fully but can be a far more expensive choice than other styles of the same width and material/glass ratio.However, these doors offer the most comprehensive way to ‘bring the outside in’, so to speak. They sometimes benefit from an additional, single door which can swing open installed to the side of the main panels, as accessing the home through the main panelled parts is not always feasible.

Cost of Patio Doors
Patio door prices can be confusing to navigate – one company could quote you a fairly reasonable amount, and another may insist their price is better, for what seems very much like the same product. Where, then, do these prices begin to differ?

Well, patio door prices depends on material, design, and dimensions. Of course, you’ll have to factor in installation costs too, as a professional joiner will do the best job of fitting this crucial part of your property’s external façade.

Below are standard asking prices for patio doors, based on standard sizes and off-rack quotes. If you’re having patio doors installed into a bespoke extension, for example, you will find that most ‘standard’ sized door options won’t fit the opening you’ll be working with.

Type of Patio Door Basic Starting Price
French £385+
Sliding £455+
Bi-Fold £900+

Remember that if you’re paying for someone else to install your patio doors, you’ll need to consider how much their labour costs per day. In the following examples, you can assume the tradesman’s rate is £150 per day, and his labourer is £100 per day.

You have a standard sized opening, with 1.2m x 2.1m patio doors, and…

…you want to take out tired, worn-out French doors and install new uPVC French doors

Labour (1½ days) x 2 tradesmen £375
Materials £425
Accessories £100
Grand total £900

…you want to remove a window and put UPVC French Doors in it place

Labour (3 days) x 2 tradesmen £750
Materials £425
Accessories £300
Grand total £1,475

…you want a brand new divide or opening and you want to install new French Doors (uPVC) (or enlarge an existing opening significantly to do the same)

Labour (4 days) x 2 tradesmen £1,000
Materials £425
Accessories £500
Grand total £1,925

In addition to these estimates, you may wish to consider the following options:

  • Glazed wooden French doors that have glazing and a wooden frame – extra £325 to costs
  • Georgian doors will add an additional £575
  • If you need to consult a structural engineer, this will cost around £100
  • If you’re modifying an existing opening, or creating a new one, you’ll need to look into the price of a lintel that is load-bearing.

Cost of Patio Doors FAQ 

Why would someone want patio doors?

Patio doors are a fantastic way to make previously ‘boxy’ living areas feel fresh and open, by providing a set of doors made predominantly from glass.

If you’re building a conservatory or extension, you may want to consider two sets of patio doors – many properties use wooden French doors to provide a barrier between their main home and the extension, where in turn a set of patio doors open onto the garden.

What are the disadvantages of fitting patio doors? Are there alternatives to having them installed?

If your property doesn’t feature a particularly winsome garden, the installation of patio doors can mean you’re left looking out onto a less-than-attractive panoramic. In this case, you may wish to simply install a single door, combined with a window or two.

Additionally, the prices of patio doors can vary greatly – you need to keep an eye on the budget, as some builders may try to persuade you to go for bi-fold over sliding doors, for example. Though a professional opinion should certainly be considered – at the very least on a cost level – ultimately, it’s your choice.

What are the main benefits of patio doors?

Patio doors provide you with a full view of your garden or patio and can give older rooms a refreshing new look.

Depending on which style you choose, you may be able to customise the ratio of framing material to glass, which can result in some highly bespoke designs.

Patio doors are fantastic for hosting events, too – no longer must your guests shuffle awkwardly at the single door leading out of the kitchen or utility room. Instead, patio doors will allow you to extend your event space into the garden, whilst making access to the house simple and easy.

Will I need planning permission to install patio doors?

Installing patio doors will usually fall under the Permitted Development directive, meaning you won’t need to apply for planning permission to have them fitted.

However, new doors must follow the Building Regulations, listed under the “controlled fitting” category.

There are five areas which must be covered when installing new patio doors.

Thermal Heat Loss
Patio doors must adhere to the U-Value rules attributed to them by the government’s planning regulations scheme. You can find specific values for the type of work you’re planning here.

Safety Glazing
In addition to meeting thermal insulation regulations, patio door glass must feature safety glazing. See Diagram 5.1 in this document for more information.

All rooms must be ventilated sufficiently in order to allow for optimum airflow. If your patio doors open onto a garden, ventilation systems such as “trickle filters” may suffice.

Fire Safety
If your patio doors are close to the boundary between your property and your neighbours, pay careful attention to the fire-resistance qualities they offer.In terms of providing a means of escape, patio doors should always meet the criteria. However, if they’re paired with a window, the cill height should be no more than 1.1m above the floor. It’s a legal requirement that you should have at least one escape window in each room of your property.

Access to buildings
If your home was built after 1999, you must make sure to keep the threshold level if the work you’re carrying out is in effect exchanging doors to the property’s main entrance. Failing to do so will mean the work being undertaken won’t pass Building Regs requirements.

Should my patio door installer be a member of anything (trade body, government registration scheme, etc?) What sort of questions should I be asking them?

Whoever carries out the installation of your patio doors should be part of a Competent Persons Scheme.

There are several different accreditation boards, though the most common are FENSA and CERTASS. If your installer isn’t certified or registered, you will incur a £200 charge made payable to your local building control in order to certify the completed work.

Make sure to ask your installer how long they think the work will take – joiners charge labour by the day.

How long does it take to install patio doors?

Depending on the job at hand, you will find the time it takes to install your new patio doors will differ. Here are a few examples:

Job Timescale
Replace old French doors with a new UPVC pair 1.5 days, two workers
Convert a window to fit new UPVC French Doors 3 days, two workers
Create a new opening, and fit new UPVC French Doors (or enlarge an existing opening significantly to do the same) 4 days, two workers

Why should I get patio door installation quotes from Tradesmen Prices?

Because the price of patio doors can vary greatly, and the cost of labour even more so, it’s wise to shop around before you decided to commit financially.

Using the Tradesmen Prices form below, you can access 3-4 quotes from pre-checked tradespeople and contractors who will be able to source and install new patio doors in your home.

Use the quotes you receive to compare against each other, and you may find one of your options may lower their prices in order to secure your custom.

Chimney Removal Cost (Guide for 2018)

Though the British chimney sweep cuts a striking figure in our imaginations thanks to children’s publications and classic movies, the reality of today is that most Britons heat their home with gas – thus rendering our stately chimneys redundant, not to mention their spikey looking cleaners.

Though some want to keep their chimneys in pristine condition with regular maintenance in a sort of tribute to the days of yore, doing so can sometimes prove an unnecessary pain in the wallet.

Over time, chimneys age and start to cause problems within a property such as damp ingress or taking up much-needed room.

So, it’s no surprise that many homeowners – or those purchasing buy-to-let properties – are curious as to how they can reclaim the space that their chimney takes up. And most importantly: how much will it cost?


One thing you can do first is to get quotes from local roofers in your area. To do this fill in the form below:

Chimney Terminology

To narrow down the problems which can occur within a chimney, it’s worth knowing the different terms used to describe it.

In your home, the chimney breast is the visible, jutting part of the chimney which spans all the floors. Fires would have been stacked in the hearth, and flues would have carried the smoke up the chimney through a tube shaped like a square.

On the exterior of a house, the chimney stacks are visible. They start from your loft and protrude from the roof. This is where – if someone who lives nearby to you still heats their home using a coal or wood fire – you’ll see smoke exiting their property.

Why remove your chimney?

Though you may feel as though removing your chimney entirely would solve any problems you’re currently experiencing, it should be noted that such a job would be highly disruptive, not to mention expensive.

It’s important to remember that where your chimney is located will impact how much work can be undertaken to reduce its appearance or effect on your property. For example, it’s not possible to take out a bedroom chimney breast in a detached house, as doing so will leave the stack on the outside without support and at risk of collapse.

Conversely, undertaking the same work in a semi-detached house is viable because the party wall will comprise brickwork which is strong and self-supporting.

In most cases, removing the chimney breast on your ground will not cause too much integral variance or increase risk of collapse.

Chimney Removal Cost

The cost of chimney removal will depend entirely on the extent of the work to be completed. Although this type of job is undoubtedly labour-intensive, your budget will have to cover not only the work, but also the materials necessary to reconstruct and redecorate the room the chimney has been removed from.

You may require joists and scaffolding, and it’s also wise to consider the disturbance this type of work will cause within the home. It may not be feasible to remain on the premises for a few days whilst work is being completed.

For the average cost of different types of chimney removal, see the table below:

Work Description Cost
First floor chimney breast removal in an average semi-detached house This job includes:

Fitting gallows brackets in the loft

Adding a concrete hearth to level the floor

Installing new skirting boards

Re-plastering the room in question

£1,500 for a professional job
Ground floor chimney breast removal in an average semi-detached house This job includes all the above, plus:

Retaining the first-floor (usually bedroom) chimney breast

£1,775 for a professional job
Entire chimney breast removal, leaving only the stack This job includes:

Fitting gallows brackets in the loft

Adding a concrete hearth to level the floor

Installing new skirting boards

Significant re-plastering throughout the entire property

£2,050 (factor in an additional £250 if there is a lot of re-plastering and decorating work to be done)
Chimney stack removal This job includes:

Removing the external stacks themselves

Capping and sealing the remaining cavity

Between £1,000 and £1,600 across most parts of the UK

Chimney Removal Cost FAQ

Why would someone want to remove their chimney?

If a chimney breast is taking up much-needed floorspace in a bedroom, for example, removing part of it to increase the liveable space within the room can be of great benefit to the homeowner.

As chimneys age, they sometimes start to collapse, or allow damp or rain to penetrate the walls of your property. If this is the case, it can be a sensible decision to either cap the chimney or remove sections (or all) of it.

What are the disadvantages of removing a chimney?

If you go ahead and remove significant chunks of your chimney when it isn’t necessary to do so, the remaining structures could be at risk of collapse.

If your chimney features a particularly unique design, your home may lose value should you choose to get rid of it. Take into account when your home was built and whether removing the chimney would make your property look out of place.

Are there alternatives to removing a chimney?

Instead of removing the entire chimney, you may find that the problems you’re experiencing can be fixed using a variety of different methods.

The chimney stacks are badly dilapidated
Removing only the chimney stacks to reduce disruption throughout the property.

You want to create more space in a single room
Consider: Removing the chimney breast only from one room.

Condensation in your home and inside the chimney caused by rainwater
Consider: Capping the chimney would be a good use of your money.

If you choose to take out the chimney stacks as a standalone job, the process will be less disruptive than if you were to remove the entire chimney. However, it will still require a substantial level of involvement, and if you’re considering doing it yourself, make sure you can facilitate the following:

  • Erection of scaffolds around your chimney stack
  • Removing the cowls, cement flaunching, and pots
  • Taking removing bricks one at a time before lowering them to the deck
  • Installing a brand new layer of timbers, roofing felt, and tiles
  • Disposing of waste properly and selling off the materials that have value

It’s advised to leave this sort of job to the professionals as it requires several specialist skills to complete and any complications arising due to inexperience could result in structural damage or increase the risk of collapse.

What are the main benefits of removing a chimney?

There will be increased space in your property, especially if a particularly large chimney breast takes up a lot of room within the property.

Similarly, having removal work done to a section of your chimney, or an equivalent process, could help in reducing the likelihood of reoccurring chimney problems in the future.

The most common chimney problems are:

Even if your chimney is out of use, there is the possibility that things could have fallen into it, or that over time, it has deteriorated and collapsed in on itself.

If your chimney is still (or has been) exposed to a wood-burning fire, a risk of creosote build-up will occur. When wood is burned, smoke goes up the chimney. Creosote is deposited in the flue lining – it’s a mixture of black or brown tar, and soot. Creosote is highly flammable, and any hazardous build-ups should be addressed immediately.

Brickwork Problems
If your chimney has started to lean, crumble, or collapse, it’s likely the brickwork it’s built from has deteriorated over time. Though repairs can be cheaper than full chimney removal, they will only have to be carried out again and again… if you don’t use your chimney at all, this type of maintenance really isn’t worth the hassle.

Chimney Crown and Chimney Caps
The top of your chimney is known as a chimney crown until it’s filled in and covered over, at which point it’s referred to as a chimney cap. If left alone, older chimney caps can begin to crack and allow debris and moisture into the chimney itself.

Cracks in the Flue
Even if your chimney has been out of use for years, cracks in the flue can cause problems in the rest of your house, especially if the chimney itself is poorly protected against moisture or debris.

Will I need planning permission to remove my chimney?
If you want to fit, alter or completely replace a chimney, soil/vent pipe, or an outside flue, chimney, or soil and vent pipe is considered by the government to be a Permitted Development, meaning it won’t require planning permission. However, this is only applicable if the following criteria are met:

  • The flue on the back or the side of your home extends no more than 100 centimetres taller than the highest part of the roof
  • The local authority is in agreement with the proposed work (if you live in a listed building or your home is located in a conservation area)

However, any major structural changes made to a home must be cleared by the local planning organisation and should be reviewed by an experienced structural engineer.

It will cost you money to contact your local council and their planning and building control officers to give your chimney removal the goahead, but it’s a necessary expense. Not only will it make you and your family safer, but it will also stop later problems for occuring upon inspection by surveyors when it comes to sell your property.

Additionally, if you live in a semi-detached property where yourself and your neighbour have a chimney in common, or they back onto each other, it will be necessary to take a party wall agreement into account.

Should the contractor who removes my chimney be a member of anything (trade body, government registration scheme, etc?) What sort of questions should I be asking them?

A project of this size requires a number of specialised skills and you’ll want to feel reassured that any and all complications will be rectified, especially if you’re handing the whole job over to a project manager.

Though general builders are not required to have any qualifications, you may wish to check if your contractors are registered with the Federation of Master Builders (FMB).

However, beware of contractors who are looking to secure a quick job without any preliminary preparative measures in place. Your builders should be able to answer any questions you may have and provide you with evidence surrounding their management of the project.

If you’re unsure of what to ask, see below for several examples that will help you see the bigger picture a little more easily:

  • What do you do to get rid of the soot, dirt, and bricks from the property?
  • What do you do to make sure my house is kept clean?
  • Will you contact the necessary officials for me before, during, and after the job?
  • Will much of my house need re-plastering?
  • How are you planning to finish the hearth?

If a builder tries to talk you out of getting in touch with the council, walk away. This could cause major issues going forward for you and may be an indicator that they have not taken out public liability insurance for work like this.

How long does it take to remove a chimney?

Depending on the job at hand, and how many workers are doing it, the time it will take to remove your chimney will differ. Here are some common timescales, though you should allow for variances.

Work Description Timescale
First floor chimney breast removal in an standard semi This job includes:

Fitting to your loft gallows brackets

Adding a concrete hearth to level the floor

Installing new skirting boards

Re-plastering the room in question

This is a two-person role that could last three days, not including redecorating or finishing the room.
Ground floor chimney breast removal in an average semi-detached house This job includes all the above, plus:

Retaining the first-floor (usually bedroom) chimney breast

This is similar in terms of timescale to the previous example, but the retention of the upper chimney breast means that further structure support must be installed.
Total removal of your chimney breast removal with only the stack left This job includes:

Fitting gallows brackets in the loft

Adding a concrete hearth to level the floor

Installing new skirting boards

Significant re-plastering throughout the entire property

This job is likely to take around 5 days, and you’ll need to add time on for extensive redecorating and plastering, too.
Chimney stack removal This job includes:

Removing the external stacks themselves

Capping and sealing the remaining cavity

Two roofers should be able to remove the stack in half a day if the chimney itself is of regular size. For a larger chimney, this job may take up to a day and a half.

Why should I get chimney removal quotes from Tradesmen Prices?

Though you may be tempted to undertake chimney removal yourself in an effort to save cash, the price of chimney removal is a worthy investment if you consider the workload that this job brings with it.

Hiring a professional scaffolder will ensure the safety of yourself and also your contractors, and having the job completed by experienced builders takes any complications that may occur out of your hands.

However, finding someone to complete the work for you can be difficult, especially if you’re being quoted a range of prices. Using the Tradesmen Prices form below you can access 3-4 competitive quotes from local builders who will be able to give you a decent estimate for the cost of removing your chimney.

We only put you in touch with genuine tradespeople whose credentials and history we’ve thoroughly checked, so you don’t need to worry about ‘cowboy builders’ trying to cash in on your crumbling chimney.

New front door cost (For 2018)

Thinking about a UPVC front door for your home? It’s one of Britain’s most popular home improvements choices.

There’s now more choice than ever and thousands of companies out there who would love to do the work for you.

The main reasons homeowners get new front doors are around security – keeping your home safe from unwanted and unwelcome visitors – and comfort – it’s another layer of warmth for your home, complimenting any double glazing or cavity wall insulation you may already have had installed.

In this article, we’re going to be looking at the price of a new front door as well as the many different types available.

If this is something you’re thinking about doing soon, then can connect you with 3-4 reputable, qualified local new front door companies. These front door installers are well-known locally for their excellence in both product delivery, new front door installation, and after-sales care.

They’ll provide you with quotes free of charge and there’s no obligation to buy. Better still, they don’t employ salespeople so you’ll never feel under any pressure from these local companies.

UPVC Doors Prices

First, let’s look at the most popular types of doors on the market. If you’re a homeowner wanting to replace your front door, what’s best in terms of both style and economy?

  • Unglazed UPVC/PVC Front Doors – prices start from £250 (supply only)

uPVC doors are the biggest selling type of new front door in the UK and they have been for the last three decades. They are solidly built, have in-built re-enforcements, handle inclement weather really well, and you can get a quarter of a century’s life out of one. Many have a 10 year plus warranty on supply too. To make your home more secure, they can come with multi-point locks, latches, hooks, and deadbolts.

  • Glazed UPVC/PVC Front Doors– prices start from £275 (supply only)
  • Glazed uPVC front doors cost more than unglazed uPVC front doors. The main difference between them is that glazed uPVC front doors have one of more panel of double glazing built into the actual door.
  • Unglazed Composite Doors – prices start from £750 (supply only)

Composite doors are made from fibreglass. Their frames are steel-reinforced and their centre is highly insulating because of its contained hard foam. They are normally decorated with a choice of up to 6 panels or in a cottage style.

  • Glazed Composite Doors – prices start from £800 (supply only)

These double-glazed doors cost more than unglazed composite doors. The main difference between unglazed composite doors and glazed composite doors is the presence of double glazing which is built into the door.

  • Composite Doors with sidepanels – prices start from £1,000 (supply only)

This is an option for homeowners with wider door frames and who enjoy letting more light into their home. They can be designed in a number of different styles incorporating many aesthetic elements according to your personal taste.

All of these five main types of doors offer excellent safety features, add security to your home, protect against the weather, and are available in classic or more contemporary designs.

uPVC/PVC is the clear winner in terms of price making them perfect for a homeowner with a budget. In the rest of the article, we’ll look at everything you need to know about uPVC front doors and how to get one for your home.

UPVC Front Doors Fitted

The cost of getting a new front door fitted varies on both the style of the door and the company you choose to fit it.

UPVC front doors supplied and fitted can cost between £350 and £600 depending on who you work with. In case you’re considering it, UPVC back door fitted prices are essentially the same.

What factors can influence the price you pay for your new front door?

  • Choice of colours

We all associate uPVC doors fitted in the last few years with their bright, white, attractive colour. It comes as a surprise to many homeowners choosing a new front door that there are dozens of colours available to choose from, including White Knight, Dual Golden Oak, Dual Anthracite Grey, and more.

  • Grids

Grids are decorative adornments to your new front door – for example, Astragal Bars and Traditional Georgian Bars which give a beautiful and authentic look and feel to your new front door.

  • Add-ons

That extra personalisation through accessories like spyholes for a tenner or above, knockers from around £15, letterplates starting at a tenner, and custom sills from a tenner.

  • Insulation

For further protection, you can add more insulation to your door – prices start at around £20. You can also add warm edge spacer bars for a tenner and sealing tape for a fiver. You can upgrade from double glazing on your door to triple glazing and that will put up the price by around £20 or more.

Doubled glazed front door cost fitted

You have two options for fitting your double glazed front door – do it yourself or pay a trusted local installer.

DIY – once you have selected the front door you want from your list of front door prices, it’s time to get started. Don’t forget that you will have to cost in not just the PVC door price, you have to budget for the UPVC door cost and frame price to keep within your budget.

Installing a new front door yourself is not easy – in fact, it’s a two-person job. You first have to remove your current door and frame – it’s after that you’ll install the new door.

You will have to be precise on measurements so the door is the correct size. Take three measurements each – vertical and horizontal, remembering to take off 1 centimetre from the smallest measurement. Make sure that the measurement is from brick to brick.

You’ll then have to take delivery of or collect your new door frame. Factories do occasionally produce faulty doors so make sure everything looks OK once you’ve taken off the packaging.

Once you’ve taken off your old door, the frame needs removing next. You’ll have to pry it out using a bar, a chisel, and sometimes a hammer. You can actually damage your brickwork at this stage so you do have to be careful. Once that’s done, make sure the silicon is cleared from the surface as well as the mastic.

Now you fit the sill – have a spirit level to hand to make sure it’s in the exact right position. You then align your new sill with shims and with packaging, taking care to secure the sill with silicone.

Now, place the new door and its new frame into the space. You’ll need to ensure that the bottom is plumb and try to open the door to see that it’s working correct. Using a drill, make some holes into both the brickwork and the frame. Then, fasten it with bolts and anchors, at all time making sure the door remains plumb.

Now, for each side, you secure it with drilling. First the hinged side, the lock side next. If the door isn’t shutting properly, make the necessary adjustments.

Next, make sure the plastic packers are positioned correctly. For the hinge side, you need one vertical and one horizontal packer from the bottom. For the lock side, it’s the opposite.

Once this is right, you now need to check that your new front door locks fine after being closed properly. If it does, fill in the beads and tap it down with a hammer.

It’s now time for the last bit – fine-tuning adjustments. For this, have a screwdriver ready. This is to get rid of play by calibrating the latch. For smooth opening and closing, fine-turn the hinges.

Now, the seal. Make sure you have cleaned the frame by sealing it to bricks with silicone sealant (waterproof).

As you can see, there’s a lot to do and you’ll need to rope someone else to do it.

If you want to work with a professional installer, you can get 3-4 quotes from trusted, vetted, local tradesmen using the quote form above. They can take the hassle of installation away from you. There’s no charge to using the service and there’s never any pressure from anyone to buy anything.

UPVC door and frame price – frequently asked questions

Why would someone want a new front door?

A new front door can really improve how your home looks from the outside and how it feels on the inside. It could be that you’re planning to put your property on the market soon and are looking for ways to maximise value. It could be that, compared to the rest of your home, the doors looked old, dated, and tired and you want the door to fit in with the rest of your property.

What are the main advantages of having a new front door installed?

The main advantages are that a new front door looks good, keeps the warm in and the cold out, and is much better at stopping unwanted visitors from getting in.

What are the disadvantages of getting a new front door?

There is an element of disruption when you have a new front door installed. Your installers will need access to the front area of your home, especially around where the door is to be fitted, and other areas too.

If it is a particularly cold day, your home will have no front door for a few hours meaning that the temperature will drop quickly inside your house.

Will I need planning permission for a new front door?

Generally not. However, if you live in a listed building or a conservation area, it’s always better to check with your local authority planners prior to either buying your new door and/or having it fitted.

Where can I buy a new front door from?

There are plenty of places you can buy a new door from. If you want to buy a new door that either you would install or you would get someone else to install, you can buy from them major DIY and home improvement retailers. There are also many online options you can consider too.

If you want to use an installer (who will more likely than not get the new door cheaper than you can because of his/her company’s buying power) to help you choose the door and the frame and then who will install it, you can find many suppliers online and in the local papers.

To get 3-4 quotes from trusted, vetted, local tradespeople in your area, please scroll to the top of the page and fill in our form.

Should my front door installer be part of any professional organisation?

Most of the time, your new uPVC/PVC door and frame will be fitted by a time-served and professional joiner or carpenter. Despite the fact that changing a door doesn’t sound that difficult when you think about other home improvements, it’s a tricky, time-consuming job because your installation has to be accurate to the millimetre and it involves the use of lots of different types of working equipment.

For peace of mind when dealing with a new door installer, you might want to check to see if they are members of:

How long does it take to install a new front door?

Generally, a few hours. Once your current door and frame have been removed, fitting and sizing the door will take about an hour. Then your installer will affix the locks, the handle, and hinges – that’ll be done in about 3 hours.

Thinking about the whole job, if your installer arrives at 8 in the morning, they’ll probably be there until around 1-2pm in the afternoon.

Before I get a new front door, what should I ask my potential installer?

Any time you spend money on a major home improvements project like the replacement of a front door, it’s best that you feel personally happy and comfortable with the person doing it. For your own peace of mind, make sure to ask the following questions

  • what colours can I choose from for my uPVC front door?
  • have you fitted doors in this area before? Do you have any pictures I can see?
  • are you members of a professional trade body?
  • how can you make my uPVC door unique to me?
  • are your doors “Secured by Design”?
  • can you fit a low threshold door? (ideal for wheelchair users and prams)

Why should I get a quote for a front door from

With so much competition out there among glaziers and new door companies for your business, it pays to shop around. And shopping around is not just about price, it’s about finding an installer you feel happy dealing with on a personal level and one who can offer the range of options you want for your new front door and who is an expert in fitting them.

You can use the form at the top of the page to get 3-4 quotes from local, trusted, vetted installers used by people in your community. Our service is 100% free and you’re under no obligation to make a purchase from any of our experienced tradesmen.

Staircase Replacement Cost (For 2018)

Design and materials play a huge role in deciding the overall cost of replacing a staircase. The prices climb quite rapidly once you start to add bespoke features and expensive fittings, although a standard straight staircase can start from as little as £250.

The next step up in price comes with the addition of a bespoke design, which could set you back £3,000 at the very least. And, if you’re staring at a particularly ‘radical’ bespoke design, you may need to budget for work which could cost upwards of £25,000.

However, there are a broad range of staircase styles and designs available, some of which we have provided estimates for below:

Material – Softwood Material – Ash or Oak Hardwood
Straight From £380 From £1,100
Single Winder From £510 From £1,375
Double Winder From £660 From £1,725
Quarter Landing From £425 From £1,250
Half Landing From £510 From £1,600
Triple Winder From £785 From £1,875
Z Shape From £799 From £2,075
Straight Mid Landing From £500 From £1,700
Double Landing From £500 From £1,600

These figures do not include VAT, so be sure to factor that in as well as the cost of delivery.

Now, depending on the style of fittings and finishes you want to use, the price of your staircase could increase greatly. For example, ball caps, Georgian spindles, and turned posts can add 10%+ to the overall cost.

Here are several additional factors that may affect the price of your staircase replacement:

  • Installation costs will vary. That depends on how easy the access is – higher levels will be more expensive than lower levels, for example.
  • Scale and complexity
  • Who completes the work

If you’re confident you have the muscle and experience to install the staircase on your own, you could save a considerable amount in labour costs.

It will take a few days to put in a typical staircase, and the cost of their labour will tend to fall between £200 and £400, though this is likely to be higher if you live in London or the South.

The cost for putting in a replacement staircase carried out by professionals will include:

  • The measuring
  • The building
  • The installation
  • Removing and disposing of the old staircase

This could total between £2,000 and £4,000.

Cost of Replacing a Staircase FAQ

There’s nothing worse than landing on a creaky step when you’re trying to sneak around the house unnoticed. If you’re starting to run out of steps you can comfortably walk on without sounding like there’s an angry cat living under them, it might be time to consider getting a new staircase.

The staircase is the focal point of our hallways, both structurally and visually. It often goes neglected, as rarely do homeowners consider that it may need more than a new carpet every fifteen years to keep it in good condition.

Replacing your staircase can be a fantastic way to kick-start renovation within the home. It’s also a sound investment – if your current staircase has been in situ since you bought the house, there’s a good chance it’s been subject to constant footfall from multiple families or homeowners before you moved in.

There are several factors you need to consider when designing a replacement staircase. The most obvious, of course, is how it’s going to look. Though there’s certainly a place for floating, sci-fi-esque steps making their way – seemingly unsupported – up a gleaming white wall, this style may not be the best choice for you if your house is particularly old or if you have young children.

The cost of the installation will vary depending on a number of factors, including but not limited to:

  • Materials
  • Craftmanship
  • Overall Design

For such an extensive project, it can be difficult finding a cost-effective solution. Using the Tradesmen Prices form just below, you can access 3-4 quotes from reliable contractors who will be able to replace your existing staircase with a brand new one, tailored to your requirements and desired finish.

Why would someone want a new staircase?

If your existing staircase is structurally unsound, outdated, or doesn’t fit the aesthetic of the rest of your home, you may want to look into replacing it.

Similarly, a brand-new staircase may be necessary to provide safe and reliable access to a new loft conversion or mezzanine floor.

What are the disadvantages of a new staircase?

Depending on the style of staircase you choose to install, you may encounter several complications.

For example, a spiral staircase cannot be used as the primary (or single) access to the full second floor of a home. They can be difficult to navigate and allow only one person to use them at a time.

Similarly, U-Shaped and L-Shaped stairs can be difficult to construct in spaces which previously featured a straight staircase.

Are there alternatives to a new staircase?

If your reason for looking at a new staircase is simply to update the existing look, you may want to consider simply customising your current staircase instead.

For an older looking carpet, you may want to have it replaced. Conversely, you could remove the carpet entirely and paint the material underneath, be it wood or concrete.

What are the main benefits of a new staircase?

Aside from offering a brand new aesthetic update to your central accessway, having a new staircase installed can correct unsound structures and provide a safe way to navigate the floors of your home.

Each style of staircase comes with its own individual advantages:

Design Advantages
Straight ·         Easiest to ascend/descend

·         Typically, easier to build

·         Railings and measurements simpler

L-Shaped/Quarter Turn ·         Visually interesting

·         Can reduce sound transmission between floors

·         Can be located in the corner of a room

U-Shaped/Half Turn ·         Easier to fit into architectural designs

·         The landings offer resting points part way up the stairs

Winder ·         Require less space than other types of staircase

·         Visually interesting

Spiral ·         Incredibly compact

·         Visually interesting

·         Central pole provides structural support, making construction simpler

Curved ·         Elegant and traditional

·         Relatively easy to ascend/descend

Will I need planning permission to build a new staircase?

Before you dive into designing your new staircase, you need to be aware of the building regulations that this type of work is subject to.

If you’re simply replacing an existing staircase, it’s unlikely that you’ll need to make any changes, or need to apply for planning permission. However, if you’re installing a new staircase – for example, to create an accessway to a loft conversion – you’ll need to be cautious and ensure you abide by the following rules:

  • Each step should be 22cm deep (between each step’s nosing).
  • Each step’s height should be between 19cm-22cm.
  • Carpenters say that the staircase should be 85cm wide although there is variance on this.
  • Landing headroom should be minimum of 20cm. If this is part of converting your loft, this should be 19cm
  • The gradient of the staircase must not exceed 42°.

Professional tradespeople or architects will be aware of these regulations already, but if you would like to understand them in further detail, click here.

Should my new staircase installer be a member of anything (trade body, government registration scheme, etc?) What sort of questions should I be asking them?

If a carpenter installs your staircase, you may want to check to see if they’re registered with the British Woodworking Federation.

Additionally, it’s always to wise to ask any contractors who undertake permanent work on your home whether they have public liability insurance.

How long does it take to install a new staircase?

The length of time that it will take to fit your new staircase replacement or installation will depend on:

  • Whether it’s a bespoke or standard design
  • How big it is
  • Where it is located within the property

As a general rule, leave a good two or three days for a carpenter to install a replacement staircase, but make sure you factor in time for the disposal of the old flight, too!

If you’re going for a custom staircase, you’ll need an architect to help you draw up the plans. This part of the job can take around two and a half months – then manufacturing the staircase from the architect plans can take between a fortnight and a month.

If you’re unsure about the timescale and level of access you’ll have to the second floor of your home, be sure to speak with your contractors.

Why should I get new staircase quotes from Tradesmen Prices?

When shopping around for new staircase prices, you may be given quotes across a large price range for the work you want. Tradesmen Prices can offer you 3-4 new staircase quotes from reliable, genuine tradespeople who will carry out the work necessary at a competitive rate.

The more quotes you have, the more likely you are to secure a better price for the same work – after all, if you have four companies vying for your custom, it’s likely at least one will compete by dropping their prices.

Velux Windows Prices and Sizes (for 2018)

If your home suffers from overly dark corners or insufficient lighting, you’ll understand just how valuable natural light is. Velux windows – also known as skylights – offer the chance to flood your loft or stairwell with natural light and for a relatively affordable price, too.

The cost of velux windows varies and we discuss it further below, but one good thing is, they can add substantial value to your home and come in many different styles and sizes, so you’ll always be able to find one that suits the look of your property.

Velux windows can feature various locking and opening mechanisms which usually can be tailored to your home’s requirements. For example, should your skylight be situated in a loft conversion which doubles as a bedroom for a small child, specific locking mechanisms can be put in place to ensure the child’s safety.

However, the cost of a skylight can vary from company to company. Installing a roof light isn’t cheap, and the budget you set aside must cover the window itself, as well as the labour required.

Cost of Velux Windows

The cost of your velux window is governed by:

  • The size desired, and,
  • The work that must be undertaken on the roof during installation.

The size you go for will depend on where you want to situate the skylight. Many bathrooms and stairwells alike would benefit from a velux window installation, but the sizes necessary for these two applications would differ greatly. See the table below for a comparison between a small and a large velux window.

Type Measurements Application Cost
Velux (small) 660mm x 980mm Bathroom For waste disposal, flashing kit, insulation, alterations to your roof,  and collar – £800 to £1,110.
Window on roof (large) 1340mm x 1600mm Stairwell, Loft Conversion, Single-Storey Extension £1,290 to £1,610.

Cost of Velux Window Repair

Repairing a velux window can sometimes require an entirely new unit. However, if you’re aware of the window model and sizing, a contractor may just as easily be able to take out the glass or the flashing trim to replace with a new one – meaning you pay less overall.

If you need a window that’s brand new, however, these are the costs you’ll likely be asked to pay:

  • Velux (small)
    Between £590 to £910
  • Window on roof (large)
    Between £1,090 to £1,420

As Velux windows price don’t change from area to area, the price you pay will depend on what standard local labour charges are.

Using the Tradesmen Prices form at the top of this page will allow you to access 3-4 quotes from local contractors who will be able to either install or replace your velux window for a highly competitive price.

Velux Windows – Additional Costs

Though labour will account for the majority of costs associated with installing a velux window, there are several additional considerations you may want to pay attention to.

  • Scaffolding
    If the velux window requires scaffolding because access is difficult, this can incur a considerable cost.
  • Vapour Barriers
    These will need to be installed to stop your new windows from getting condensation
  • Additional Features
    Security glass, electric openers, additional blinds/shutters and opening rods can also add to the total cost of your velux window installation by a significant amount.

How can you save money? On this project if you’re willing to sacrifice the Velux brand name for a less expensive equivalent. Repairing your window rather than replacing it may also bring costs down.

Types of Velux Windows

Although there are other brands of skylight available, the most notable goes by the brand name Velux. This is why most skylight windows are referred to using the Velux name, even if they’re a different brand.

In fact, there are numerous other companies you may come across in your quest to find your perfect skylight. The most popular are, of course, Velux and Roto, as they’ve been manufacturing skylight solutions for years and are especially trusted within the UK.

There are a number of different types of skylight that you may wish to consider:

  • Centre Pivot
    Popularised by Velux, this type of skylight has the window pane hung on a joint situated halfway down the frame. It swings out and allows for the window pane itself to lie flat.
  • Top Hung/MOE
    Similar to the centre pivot in that the window pane itself opens up and out. However, the hinge here is at the top, meaning the window can open all the way.The acronym ‘MOE’ stands for ‘Means of Escape’, which is why this design is popular with those who may have a narrow staircase leading to their loft conversion, which – in the event of a fire – would not facilitate an escape route.
  • Roto Third Pivot
    Similar to the Velux Centre Pivot, except the Roto features two arms which help raise the window from the outside.
  • Side Hung
    As the name suggests, these windows open outward from the side.
  • Balcony or Terrace
    Usually a combination of frames and panes, one of which will open upwards, and another which will provide a balcony area no more than a foot or so square.

Skylight windows are traditionally finished in either Pine or White UPVC (unplasticised polyvinyl chloride), although alternative colours and styles may be available depending on the manufacturer.


Velux Window FAQ

Why would someone want a Velux window?

Velux windows can transform dark and dingy rooms into bright and open spaces thanks to the addition of a natural light opening.

Not only that, but the phantom space gained by replacing solid ceiling or roof with a section of glass can make smaller rooms or stairwells seem larger, bringing a fresh feeling to the interior of your home.

Velux windows will also add to the likely resale price of your property and can improve the appearance of the exterior of your home.

What are the disadvantages of installing Velux windows? Are there alternatives to having them installed?

Though these windows are built to an exceptionally high standard – they have to withstand the same elements and weather as the roof itself – they still require maintenance and servicing, potentially more frequently than those windows located on facing and exterior walls.

Additionally, the slant of the windows can sometimes accentuate the noise from rain and wind, which can be irritating if the room is being used as a bedroom or office.

If you’re thinking of installing velux windows as part of a loft conversion, you may wish to consider the other types of window and loft conversion combinations that are available to you.

It’s a legal requirement that loft conversions feature some sort of window but these do not have to be exclusively skylight style. If you’re working with a substantial budget, perhaps consider a Mansard loft conversion, which would integrate increase floor and headspace with traditional windows instead of skylights.

What are the main benefits of Velux windows?

Velux windows are installed into the slope of the roof, maximising the natural light which enters the room. Traditional windows situated on the side of a property will allow a room to fall into shadow quite quickly, whereas velux windows capture the maximum amount of natural daylight.

If you choose to buy the Velux brand, you can enjoy the following advantages:

  • Remote control options for opening and closing hard-to-reach installations
  • Automatic opening and closing capabilities – some can detect when it starts to rain, or when a room gets too hot, for example
  • Velux windows do not require major roof structure changes to be installed

Regardless of the brand you choose, skylight style windows are sleek, space-saving ways to fill previously dark rooms with natural light.

Will I need planning permission to install Velux windows?

Velux windows fall under the Permitted Development directive, meaning they do not require planning permission to be installed. However, they must meet the following criteria:

  • Any alteration to the roof must not project more than 150millimetres from the existing roof plane
  • No alterations must be higher than the tallest part of the roof
  • Side facing windows must be obscure-glazed, and any openings must be 1.7m above the floor.

Traditional skylight windows meet these criteria, so it’s unlikely you’ll find installing one causes any problems with the local planning authority.

Should my Velux window installer be a member of anything (trade body, government registration scheme, etc?) What sort of questions should I be asking them?

If you’re having Velux brand windows installed, it’s recommended you search for them on the Velux Certified Installer registry.

Alternatively, an independent glazier or window fitter may be a member of the Glass and Glazing Federation (GGF).

Ask your installer for advice regarding safety features or add-ons, especially if you have young children or pets who may find themselves at risk should the window open all the way.

How long does it take to install a Velux window?

Depending on how much work must be completed during the installation process, the length of time it takes to install a Velux window will usually be between one or two days.

Having a Velux brand window replaced by one of their company workers will likely take less than a day – sometimes as little as four hours, with minimal disruption and mess.

Why should I get Velux window installation quotes from Tradesmen Prices?

Though the prices for Velux and Roto brand windows aren’t likely to change on account of where you live, the labour involved in your installation will.

Use the Tradesmen Prices form below to receive 3-4 competitively priced quotes from reliable tradespeople who will be able to install your skylight window to the high standard we expect from the contractors we work with.

Fitted Wardrobes Cost (For 2018)

You’ve decided you want a fitted wardrobe but you’re looking for an indication of fitted wardrobe prices.

The price you pay will depend on the fitted wardrobe solution you choose. So what types of fitted wardrobes are there? Let’s look at four examples:

  • Stylish, contemporary sliding doors fitted wardrobe with mirrors to make your room feel bigger. If it has three sections, it will cost £2,800 to £3,600 to have this installed although that may vary on room size and chosen finishes
  • Handcrafted, bespoke fitted bedroom wardrobe – £2,500 to £2,850 for a less detailed design with the price rising for more ornate features like columns and mouldings
  • Large bedroom 3m 80cm three section six door – including finishes on both the inside and the outside with drawers and hanging space for your clothes. Around £4,800 or more.
  • Simple two section closet – depending on finish, around £3,200 upwards.

Fitted wardrobe prices

How much do fitted wardrobes cost? The average price of fitted wardrobes varies – there are cheap fitted wardrobes, mid-range fitted wardrobes, and high-end expensive wardrobes. What you chose depends on your budget, how much fitted wardrobe space you want, and the aesthetic finish of your fitted wardrobe.

The average price of fitted wardrobes is hard to estimate because everyone has their own idea about what they want. You can devise your own fitted wardrobe price calculator by using the following price ranges to mix and match until the final amount is within your fitted wardrobe cost budget.

For budget fitted wardrobes fitted against a straight wall which have a standard shape, you’ll pay between £700 and £800 per lineal metre.

Mid-range fitted wardrobes offer much better quality in terms of looks and finish. For mid-range fitted wardrobes, you’ll need to budget (per lineal metre) around £1,500.

If you want something that is truly bespoke to you – real designer wardrobes that are a one-off – you’re looking at, per lineal metre, about twice the cost of mid-range wardrobes – £3,000. This factors in the cost of the designer’s time, the time and materials needed to build your custom fitted wardrobe, and your installer’s time (particularly if the installation is made more complex by non-standard room shapes).

Cost of built in wardrobes UK

From the figures above, you’ll have a great idea of what most built in wardrobes price lists will look like at different fitted wardrobe suppliers.

To get your own figures though, please fill in the form at the top of the page to get 3-4 quotes from experienced and professional fitted wardrobe installers local to you. There’s no cost to the service and you’re under no obligation to buy anything.


Installing fitted wardrobes into your home is something that many people would love to do. You’ve only got to think about the advantages that they bring in terms of both looks and space.

Your room might have a particular shape and, try as you might, you’ve never been able to find a standalone fitted wardrobe to make the most of the space or alcove in your room. Your family is growing or you just need more space to store your clothes, your shoes, and everything else but you have not spotted the perfect solution at Ikea or other leading furniture retailers.

What you have at the moment just isn’t doing it for you or your family – not to mention the difficulty of cleaning dust from the top and the sides of your standalone wardrobe.

Many people are put off by what they imagine the cost of the materials needed for a fitted wardrobe (especially the mirror part) and the labour costs of actually installing it.

On this page, we’ll look at the range of fitted wardrobe options open to you, what prices you can expect to pay for fitted wardrobe installation, and how to get the best price for your fitted wardrobe.

By filling in the form below, you can get 3-4 free quotes (with no obligation) from experienced and trusted local installers of fitted wardrobes. Our service is free – you never pay us a penny.

Fitted wardrobe cost FAQ

Why would someone want a fitted wardrobe?

To improve the look of their home and to squeeze extra valuable storage space.

Britain’s houses and flats are among the smallest in the world in terms of square footage and the highest in terms of price.

Because you’ve worked so hard to get a foot on the property ladder, it makes sense to invest in your own personal home space so that you can make the most out of it. With a fitted wardrobe, your room feel biggers, you get the pleasure of floor-to-ceiling mirrors, and a nice, neat, handy space to store you and your family’s clothes, shoes, jewellery, and more.

What are the advantages of fitted wardrobes?

Fitted wardrobes offer lots of different advantages for homeowners. As we mentioned earlier, a stand-alone wardrobe never really makes use of all the space around it – that’s extra storage space that you and your family are benefitting from.

Fitted wardrobes take up every inch of space available. They reach from the floor to the ceiling and are installed up tightly against your walls. If your home has rooms that are irregular in shape or size, it’s impossible to find a stand-alone wardrobe that offers the looks and space-creating qualities of a fitted wardrobe – fitted wardrobes even work with sloping ceilings.

There are no one-size-fits-all or one-style-suits-all restrictions either. They’re built according to the style you agree with your installer – they meet both your practical and aesthetic requirements.

They offer the extra benefit of sliding to opening rather than opening outwards – that means more room when you’re selecting your clothes, shoes, and jewellery to wear. The floor-to-ceiling mirror also means that you can see exactly how you look and you can mix and match what you’re wearing to the best possible effect.

The styling can even extend to the lighting options available for your fitted wardrobe – you can make a real feature and talking point with uplighters and downlighters both inside and outside your fitted wardrobe.

What are the disadvantages of fitted wardrobes?

Your fitted wardrobes will be a fixture in your home and therefore it will be more difficult and costly to get rid of them should you decide that you do not want them anymore.

If you do decide to remove a fitted wardrobe, you will likely need to perform some painting and decorating to cover up the fact that there had previously been a built-in wardrobe in your room.

Do fitted wardrobes need planning permission?

Generally not. However, if you live in a listed building, you should speak to your Local Authority before doing anything.

Who sells and installs fitted wardrobes?

There are thousands of companies in the UK which will either sell you the materials for your fitted wardrobe, install your fitted wardrobe, or do both. It can be difficult sometimes for homeowners to choose the right company for them.

There are big, high-street installers and independent, regionally based installers. There’s a big difference between what you pay for your fitted wardrobe when you’re paying Sharps Bedrooms prices and what you pay for a trusted, local installer whose sole office premises are based close to your home.

Your big chain installers will offer great quality and service but often at a much higher price. Why? Purely because they have so many offices, staff, installers, sales staff, fixtures, fittings, and stock costs to meet. Smaller installers tend to buy for jobs only when needed meaning that they have much more freedom to price because their money isn’t tied up in a dozen different things to do with running the business.

If you want to get 3-4 quotes from a local installer whose reputation is well-earned and who has experience supplying fitted wardrobes to customers’ exact specifications, please fill in the form at the top of the page. The service is free and there’s no obligation to buy.

Should the company who fits my wardrobe belong to any professional trade organisation or have certain qualifications?

There is currently no trade body specifically for fitted wardrobe installers. However, a good place to start for a company with credible trade references is to look for members of the British Institute of Kitchen, Bedroom, and Bathroom Installers (BiKBBI).

BiKBBI is an organisation sanctioned by the Government. It’s not for profit and its mission statement is to improve standards in the industry by working with installers, retailers, and manufacturers. They deal direct with the public too offering advice and information so that those thinking about installing fitted wardrobes can make an empowered choice based on knowledge.

Members are police checked, fully insured, follow the institute’s code of conduct, and are there to mediate in case of a disagreement between an installer and a homeowner.

How long does it take to install a fitted wardrobe?

Most fitted wardrobes can be installed within one day – some may be fitted in as little as two to three hours.

The room in which you’re having your fitted wardrobes installed will be unusable during the time that your installers are there. There will be minimal disruption to your home although your fitted wardrobe installers will need access via your front door, in your hallway, on your stairs, and on your landing during the time that they are there.

What questions should I ask a fitted wardrobe installer?

Installing fitted wardrobes into your home is a major investment and it’s important that you feel comfortable with the company doing the work.

Once you have a budget in mind, ask your potential installer the following questions:

  • How many doors will my fitted wardrobe have?
  • “I’d like the doors to look this way. What can I get for my budget?”
  • How long do you think it will take to install?
  • Once you’ve installed it, will your tradesmen clean up behind you?
  • Do you have public liability insurance?
  • How many years do you think I will get out of it before it needs maintenance?
  • How quickly can you come out if the sliding doors comes out of the rail and I can’t get it back in?

Why should I get a fitted wardrobe quote from

With more choice out there than ever before about the styles on offer with fitted wardrobes and the number of qualified tradesmen who can install them in your home, choosing who to go with can be a difficult decision for any homeowner.

You want to make sure that you get exactly the fitted wardrobe you want, that it will last a long time, and that you’re not overpaying.

The best way to get the right price for the right fitted wardrobe installation is to set tradesmen in competition with each other. Having 3-4 quotes will do just that.

At the top of this page, please find a form you can fill in to get 3-4 quotes for trusted, reputable local tradesmen skilled in fitted wardrobe installation. There’s no charge for this service and you’re under no obligation to buy anything from anyone.

Painting and Decorating Prices (Updated for 2018)

The cost of painting and decorating your property will vary greatly depending on the extent of the project.

A single room, for example, should cost between £375 and £500. The higher end of the scale may seem steep, but in areas such as London, or in the case of an extremely well-renowned decorator, this is standard pricing.

In order to save money, it’s recommended that you hire a painter and decorator for one large job, rather than several smaller standalone ones.

Average prices for the cost of painting and decorating in the UK are as follows:

  • 2-Bedroom House/Flat
    £1,500 – £2,000
  • 3-Bedroom House/Flat
    £2,000 – £3,000
  • 4-Bedroom House/Flat
    £2,500 – £3,500
  • 5-Bedroom House/Flat
    £3,500 – £4,200

These costs are based on the assumptions that your plaster is in good condition and that your walls have existing paintwork. If walls were previously papered, and the plaster is in bad condition, you can expect to add 50-75% of the total painting price to your initial costing. Additionally, in London or the South, these prices are likely to be considerably higher.

Painting your house is a great way to make the place your own and add a bit of personal flair. Much of the excitement comes from choosing the colours – what exactly is the difference between ‘duck-egg blue’ and ‘soft mint’, anyway?

However; once the first coat is drying on the walls, you’ve got paint spots all over your hair, and your arms are feeling disproportionately heavy; reality starts to set in. It’s at this point that many people turn to a professional painter and decorator to get the job done.

It’s time to call an expert in – but how do you know you’re not being overcharged? How can you trust this person to do the best job for you?

Using the Tradesmen Prices form just below will allow you to access 3-4 quotes from local painter and decorators, who will be able to assess the work that needs doing and give you a competitive estimate for it.


One thing you can do first is to get quotes from local roofers in your area. To do this fill in the form below:

What’s involved in painting and decorating?

Though the trade itself suffers from a less than favourable reputation, there are many decorators out there who are skilled, very trustworthy, and extremely hardworking.

In fact, an experienced painter and decorator will be able to do far more than simply cover up that ageing magnolia in your living room. These additional services could include:

  • Help with choosing colours
    If you’re stuck at the first gate, you may want to ask your painter and decorator what they think about the colours you’re considering. Remember, an experienced decorator will have painted hundreds of homes before they even stepped foot inside of yours – their opinion and critical eye could be invaluable to freshening up your interior.
  • Finding specific items
    If you live in a period home, for example, it can be difficult to find genuine items or furnishings which complement the appearance of your property. A painter and decorator will likely be able to source you items like ceiling roses, coving, or skirting that matches the originals within your home.
  • Completing small jobs
    Every home has small bits of work that need completing, but which don’t merit hiring someone to do them. If you have professional painter and decorators in, they’ll be able to quickly touch up old paintwork or find you a colour match for that wall your niece decided to decorate with a permanent marker.

A professional decorator will have plenty other skills up their sleeves but make sure you’re including all the work that needs doing in your quote request. There’s no use in expecting them to do the little jobs you didn’t do yourself, and for no extra cost.


Additional Cost of Painting and Decorating

If you’ve budgeted solely for painting, you may get a shock when your professional decorator assesses your property and includes things like plastering or sealant in their quote. Before painting, walls must be prepared. Otherwise, paint runs the risk of peeling off, becoming susceptible to mould or damp, and even being applied over an uneven surface.

If your existing walls feature wallpaper which you would like to get rid of, it’s cheaper to strip it yourself than to pay a decorator to do the same thing.

There are a number of problems your decorator may experience before they even pick up a paintbrush so please be sure to include supplies and allowances in your budget. For example – damp patches cannot simply be painted over. They must be identified and covered with a sealant, which needs time to dry before painting can begin.

Nicotine stained ceilings must be washed with sugar soap before any painting can take place. Peeling gloss paint on woodwork requires what is known as a ‘burn-off’ – this takes a fair amount of time and will push up labour costs significantly, especially if the woodwork is extensive such as on stair bannisters or wall panelling.

Painting and Decorating FAQ

Why would someone want to hire a painter and decorator?

Though paintwork is often seen as a DIY job, it can be highly beneficial to hire a professional painter and decorator, especially if the area to be covered is particularly large.

More precision-based painting techniques like cutting-in can be difficult for those without painting experience or a steady hand. Additional complications like damp, mould, or plastering may occur before painting is due to take place, and often, an amateur will not have the skills necessary to resolve these problems.

Also, a professional decorator will be able to advise you on colour schemes and matches to help you decide exactly which you’d like to choose.

What are the disadvantages of hiring a painter and decorator? Are there alternatives to hiring a professional?

If the decorating at hand is simply a patch job, you may be better off doing it yourself. It’s better to call in the professionals for bigger jobs and have them complete smaller ones at the same time, than to hire a decorator to paint over the scribbles in your hallway.

You may find yourself being quoted a price that’s too good to be true. In this industry, it’s vital that you know how much experience your professional painter and decorator actually has – experienced professionals charge more, and for good reason, too!

What are the main benefits of hiring a painter and decorator?

When you hire a professional painter and decorator, you’re saving yourself a lot of time spent stressing over the finish of your walls and skirting boards. With their expertise and ability to multitask, you’ll soon find your rooms looking fresh and new.

And as mentioned previously, a painter and decorator will be able to both identify and rectify any problems regarding the suitability of your existing walls. Should plastering be necessary, they’ll either be able to do it themselves, or find someone who can.

Should my painter and decorator be a member of anything (trade body, government registration scheme, etc?) What sort of questions should I be asking them?

There are no qualifications necessary to be a painter and decorator which is why experience in this industry is the true marker of the ability to do the work well.

A professional painter and decorator should be able to reassure you with evidence of previous projects that – at the very least – the following are within their skillset:

  • Clean brushwork
  • Ability to hang wallpaper

You may also wish to ask them whether they are capable of:

  • Tiling
  • Plastering

A skilled and reliable painter and decorator will be happy to show you the end result of previous jobs, which may even help you decide on a colour scheme or specific approach for your own home.

For real peace of mind, you may with to work with a member of the Painting & Decorating Association.

How long does painting and decorating take?

Depending on the size of the project at hand, the time taken to paint and decorate can vary. Average time taken is shown below:

  • 2-Bedroom House/Flat
    Up to a week
  • 3-Bedroom House/Flat
    Around a week
  • 4-Bedroom House/Flat
    7-10 days
  • 5-Bedroom House/Flat
    1 or 2 weeks

Remember that should your walls require plastering, the length of time the entire project will take is set to increase drastically. Plaster sometimes needs up to a week to dry.

Why should I get painting and decorating quotes from Tradesmen Prices?

When looking for painting and decorating quotes, it’s vital to remember that you’re paying primarily for labour and experience. Prices vary greatly across the country, and you can expect to pay more in London.

Before you hire someone, you may want to ask if they’re offering a day rate or a fixed price. The latter is preferable, as the former doesn’t account for complications which may arise and extra, unforseen very quickly begin to push the boundaries of your budget.

Using the Tradesmen Prices form below, you can apply for 3-4 painting and decorating quotes from honest, local tradespeople who will be able to deliver professional quality, at competitive prices.

Use the quotes you receive to compare against ones you may already have and secure the best price possible for your painting and decorating project.

Orangery Prices for 2018

If you want to extend the ground floor of your home, there are several options available to you. Some people choose to have single-storey extension built. Others may prefer to convert an existing garage, or have a small conservatory installed.

Cost of an orangery

When pricing up your proposed orangery, it’s wise to think of it in terms of a single storey-extension. Thinking of it like a conservatory will only lead to surprise once you realise the lower cost bracket for a basic orangery is commonly upwards of £20,000.

Prepare to pay for the best if you want long-lasting results. A cheaply constructed orangery may look attractive in the early years but you’ll start to notice weathering and structural defects as time goes on.

It’s difficult to put an upper cost bracket on the price of orangeries, as larger, high-end designs can easily cost over £100,000. However, you’ll find that most orangeries will range in price between £20,000 and £50,000.

Usually, the actual price you pay depends on the size of the orangery and the structural materials used. Architectural aluminium, for example, will be a more expensive framing option than UPVC.

There are several additional elements you need to factor in when pricing up your orangery. These include:

Foundations and Building Expenses
The labour costs involved in building an orangery are substantial as you will need to employ a range of contractors all specialising in different areas (unless you choose to go with a specialist orangery company).

Roof Style
Whilst conservatories tend to feature pitched roofs made of cheap materials, orangeries often require a roof lantern.

Roof Ventilation and Underfloor Insulation/Heating
Without these features, the room could become uncomfortable in both hot and cold weather.

Window Frame Style and Material
UPVC will cost less than timber or aluminium.

Depending on the location of your orangery, you may need fully glazed walls, a full height brick wall, or dwarf walls. Generally speaking, more bricks equal more cost.

These must be considered carefully, as they are difficult to install after the frame has been constructed.

To get the best prices for your orangery, fill in the Tradesmen Prices form at the top of this page. We’ll provide you with 3-4 quotes from local contractors who will be able to complete your orangery build exactly to your needs and specifications.

Have you considered building an orangery?

An orangery combines elements of a single-storey extension and a conservatory to create a highly unique living space.

Orangeries are traditionally far more expensive than an average lean-to conservatory but the benefits are available all year round – they combine natural light with solid structural properties and insulated walls, making them ideal living spaces whatever the weather. They are incredibly versatile and allow for maximum personalisation during the design and decoration phases.

With Tradesmen Prices, you can access 3-4 orangery quotes from reliable tradespeople, local to you. To receive these personalised estimates, simply fill in the form just below.

Types of Orangery

As orangeries are essentially luxury conservatory/extension hybrids, their features will vary depending on your personal preference. You’ll find that the materials you choose for your orangery will greatly impact its design and price.

It’s common for those on a budget to cut corners when it comes to the structure of their orangery. This can be detrimental to the future of your new build and may end up costing far more in repairs in the long run.

There are a few common materials used for creating the framework of an orangery. They are as follows:

Sometimes known as ‘rigid PVC’, uPVC is a hard, inflexible material which does not contain BPA or phthalates, making it one of the safest building materials available.UPVC is used in the construction of orangeries as well as in window frames and sills, doors, fascia, cladding, and pipework. It is a very low maintenance material which will neither warp nor rot, despite adverse weather conditions. An advantage of UPVC is that it can carry colour all the way through the material, making it extremely visually appealing, and highly customisable.

In the past, the timber used to build permanent structures was untreated, and over time became prone to rotting and warping. These days, the timber used by most construction companies is either a treated wood sprayed with micro-porous paint, or a composite timber combining various strengths of wood for a solid, reliable building material.Building an orangery using timber offers the option of creating a roof which features exposed rafters – this is a desirable and stylish asset which will almost certainly add value to your property.

Architectural Aluminium
Architectural aluminium has come a long way since the cheap looking greenhouses of the seventies. These days, you can use architectural aluminium to construct the frame of your orangery and it brings many benefits, including:

• slim, rigid, strong frames.
• no warping, twisting, or rusting.
• no need for reinforcement as architectural aluminium is nearly equivalent in strength to mild steel.
• melting point of 660°C provides security as someone trying to break in with a blowtorch would be unable to melt the structure.
• maintenance free, as it does not attract dirt electrostatically and does not require annual servicing.

Cost of an Orangery FAQ

Why would someone want an orangery?

Orangeries are typically built for two reasons:

  • The homeowner wants to increase available floorspace, and
  • The homeowner wants to increase the value of their property.

Homeowners love that orangeries offer guaranteed extra space and the opportunity to design a part of their home exactly to their personal specifications.

What are the disadvantages of building an orangery?

Building an orangery will cause disruption within your home as it’s being built. This is something that could put off a homeowner trying to decide between an orangery and a loft conversion, for example.

Additionally, unless carefully managed, your project could encounter unforeseen complications which could end up costing you more than your budget allows.

Are there alternatives to building an orangery?

Orangeries do come at a significant cost, and for some people, building a single-storey extension may actually be of greater benefit to their home for a similar price. Usually, a ground-floor extension provides a more traditional living space which blends with your existing interior style.

Similarly, if all you’re looking for is a space-creating solution, the comparatively cheaper option of converting an existing garage may appeal to you.

Another option is to convert your loft into a large living space. Both of these conversions are extremely versatile but will not allow for as much customisation as constructing an orangery can.

What are the main benefits of building an orangery?

Choosing to build an orangery over a simple conservatory or single-storey extension can add considerable value to your home and provide a worthy return on investment in the long run.

An orangery will traditionally cost slightly less than a single-storey extension, especially if the work is carefully planned and budgeted for. However, an orangery is likely to add just as much value to your property as an extension of the same dimensions would.

In this example, you can see that building an orangery over a single-storey extension could save you money over time whilst adding that special element of interest to your home that only an orangery is capable of.

Additionally, orangeries are often highly bespoke builds. Most specialist orangery companies will offer a near infinite range of personalisation options, including the style of frame, finishing touches, and integration into your existing garden and property.

Plus, orangeries are fantastic all year round as a multi-purpose space. Thanks to extension-comparable structure and insulation, with conservatory-inspired glass panels, your orangery isn’t solely a seasonal room. 

Will I need planning permission to build an orangery?

Typically, orangeries are considered Permitted Developments, meaning they don’t require planning permission.

However, planning permission will be necessary, if:

  • The orangery covers more than half of the area of land surrounding the original house
  • The orangery is higher than the highest part of the roof
  • The orangery extends beyond the rear wall of the original house, by six metres for a detached property, and four for an attached property.

Additionally, if your home is within a conservation area, subject to an Article 4 Directive, or is a listed building, construction or extension work of any kind will need planning permission to be considered. More information can be found on the official Planning Portal.

Should my orangery builder be a member of anything (trade body, government registration scheme, etc?) What sort of questions should I be asking them?

Since your orangery construction will need the skills of numerous tradespeople to complete it, it’s wise to make sure you know exactly what you should expect from them.

Tradesmen Prices will check the credibility of any contractors we work with to offer you quotes but it’s worth asking whoever arrives for proof of registration, accreditation, or qualifications for your own peace of mind.

Additionally, asking your contractors questions to settle your nerves or give you further insight into the project will help with ongoing and smooth communication between both parties, making the whole experience far less stressful.

  • Builder
    Check for: Public Liability Insurance
    Questions: How long will the foundations take to dig and fill? Could you tell me the timescale for the bricklaying portion of the work?
  • Electrician
    Check for: Their name on the government’s Registered Competent Person Scheme.

Questions: Can you provide me with a BS7671 test certificate once you’re done, so I can pass Building Regulations?

  • Gas Engineer
    Check for: Their name in the APHC or CIPHE registries, and if they’re working with gas, that they’re a Gas Safe Registered engineer.
    Questions: Where is the best place to put a radiator or heater? Would I benefit from underfloor heating?
  • Glazier
    Check for: Their name in the Glass and Glazing Federation
    Questions: What thermal value glass are you using?

How long does it take to build an orangery?

As with most ground floor, single-storey extensions, construction of an orangery will often take three months or more to be finished.

This is because of the sheer volume of work that must be completed and the relevant periods of settling (for example, the time needed to allow foundations to sit before they can be built upon).

Why should I get orangery quotes from Tradesmen Prices?

Planning an orangery project takes time, effort, and – most notably – a properly planned and costed budget. Because orangeries are such big investments, it’s crucial you take the time to consider quotes from as many contractors as possible.

Using the Tradesmen Prices form above will offer you 3-4 quotes at competitive prices from local tradespeople who can undertake your orangery project.

They’re checked for history and credentials by us, so you can have peace of mind that we’re putting you in touch with honest and reliable contractors.

Cost of Block Paving a Drive in 2018

If you’re looking to have your driveway redone or you want to have one installed for the first time, block paving is a popular option across the UK thanks to its versatility and classic style.

Block paving can be laid as part of a DIY project, if you know what you’re doing and have enough resources. If you don’t, there’s no need to worry, as Tradesmen Prices can offer you 3-4 quotes from local tradespeople who will get the job done swiftly, attractively, and in a professional manner.

You can find the cost of your block paving project by using the form below to apply for your quotes and use them to compare against ones you already have in order to make sure you’re getting the best service possible.

Block Paving Types

Block paving is priced per metre squared which could have a direct effect on which type of paving you eventually buy. There are two main types of block paver: clay, and concrete.

Their advantages and disadvantages are:

Concrete Block Pavers Clay Block Pavers
Advantages Disadvantages Advantages Disadvantages
Fairly cheap Aggregate can become exposed over time Extremely hardwearing Slightly more expensive than concrete
Choice of shapes Colours fade Natural colour doesn’t fade Prone to mosses and lichen
Textured blocks available Patterned options available Sizing can vary due to firing process
Highly accurate sizing Difficult to cut
Wide choice of block depths (40mm, 100mm or more) Limited block depth choice (60mm, 65, or 80mm)


It’s worth noting that clay blocks are recommended by the Brick Development Association, as they are more hardwearing than concrete. Although they cost a little more, they’re considered a good investment.

Block Paving Process

Before you financially commit to having your driveway paved, it’s important to understand what exactly you’re paying for and what you should expect when the builders arrive. The block paving process is as follows:

  1. Marking-out
    Using spray markers or string and pegs, the area to be paved is marked out.
  2. Excavation
    The marked-out area is dug up either by using a digger or by hand. Soft spots should be thoroughly removed, as it’s better to fill them with sub-grading material than to have the whole driveway sink once it’s completed. If there is existing concrete in your paving area, it will need to be broken up using a hammer machine and removed from the site. You’ll need a skip for this and any excess soil or rubble. Digging usually goes around 8 inches below ground level.
  3. Sub-Grading
    A sub-grade of hardcore or scalping stone is spread, levelled out, and compacted to form a solid base. If the ground below is particularly soft or sandy, a geo-membrane may be placed between the sub-grading material and the sub-base to prevent movement or sinking.
  4. Edging Stones
    A restraining edge of block pavers is placed to form a perimeter around the marked-out area. It’s advisable to secure them within 75mm of concrete.
  5. Laying course
    Course sand is spread and levelled, before being compacted using a vibration plate. This is a screeding layer and should be 25-40mm thick to create a solid base for the block pavers.
  6. Laying the block pavers
    Each block paver is pressed closely together and bedded into the sand. Spacing burs form small joints between each brick.
  7. Alignment and Cutting In
    Block alignment is checked using a string line. Any cutting necessary is completed using a circular saw.
  8. Final Touches
    Any recess trays and gully covers required are fitted.
  9. Jointing
    Kiln dried jointing sand is spread over the entire paved area using a brush, which pushes it down into every joint. The entire area is vibrated for 10 minutes without sweeping away the excess sand. This allows it to fall into the joints.
  10. Repeat Jointing
    More sand is spread over the area and the jointing process is repeated.

Block Paving Cost per Square Metre

Depending on where you live, who completes the job, and which type of block paving you choose, the actual cost of block paving varies greatly per square metre.

The average cost of block paving around the UK, VAT included, is:

  • Up to 40m²
    £100 per m²
  • 40-70m²
    £85 per m²
  • Over 100m²
    £75 per m²

If you want to pave a standard 55m² driveway in London, it may cost you between £4,500 and £5,000. In the South, South West and Midlands, the same driveway is likely to cost between £4,000 and £4,500, while in the Outer Regions and the North, it could set you back between £3,500 and £3,750.

Materials for your block paved driveway are going to cost you the least as much of the total price goes on labour costs.

Outside of London, the average cost of labour is £45 per square metre. This is why many experienced DIY-ers choose to pave their driveways themselves.

An estimated material cost breakdown is as follows:

Blocks and edgings £950
Sharp Sand £150
Kiln Dried Sand £75
Skip Hire x3 £450
Additional Supplies £350
Total Material Costs £2075 (£38 per metre squared)

As you can see, turning your block paving driveway into a DIY project could save you nearly 50% in labour costs, but it’s important to consider the following points before you do:

  • Are you experienced at this type of DIY?
  • Have you done something similar before?
  • Have you got enough time to spare to complete the project?
  • Do you have the tools and materials necessary, or will you need to rent them?

If you decide the job is best left to the professionals, you can use the Tradesmen Prices form at the top of this page to get access to 3-4 quotes from skilled block pavers local to you.

Block Paving Cost FAQ

Why would someone want block paving?

Block paving looks good – UK homeowners have been choosing to pave their drives with since it first became popular in the 1980s. It’s a simple concept which gives stunning results when laid correctly.

The range of styles, bricks, and patterns in which block paving can be arranged is all down to you, the homeowner.

What are the disadvantages of block paving?

If block paving is installed badly, it can suffer from ‘sinkage’, where pavers on an uneven level begin to sink into the ground below over time.

Block paving also requires regular maintenance as the gaps in between each block prove a prime environment for weeds and moss to collect. In communal areas, block pavers can collect detritus and dirt making the paved area look unclean.

In addition, block paving does not qualify under the government’s SUDS (Sustainable Urban Drainage) legislation, as the pavers used are rarely made of permeable materials. This means if you’re looking to pave your driveway with block paving, you’ll be more likely to need planning permission to do it.

Will I need planning permission for block paving?

If the blocks you choose are permeable (i.e. they allow sufficient drainage) you won’t need planning permission to lay them in your driveway.

However, if the blocks you choose are impermeable (for example, clay blocks instead of concrete), you must prove that water can run into a suitable drainage area. This could be a lawn, border, or guttering system.

You’ll need planning permission for more than 5m² of block paving if there are no suitable drainage areas.

Are there alternatives to block paving?

Because of the SUDS legislation, there have been significant steps forward in making driveways drainable. Many homes now use gravel to cover their driveways as it provides ample drainage and is cheaper than traditional block paving.

A newcomer to the permeable driveway marketplace is resin-based block paving, which has grown quickly in popularity because it’s:

  • Permeable – resin is fully SUDS compliant, meaning you won’t need prior planning permission to have it installed.
  • Long-Lasting – the materials used in a resin driveway are slightly flexible, meaning they ‘give’ when vehicles drive over them. This makes them a good choice for driveways with a lot of cars coming and going.
  • Weed-Resistant – Resin is made up of compounds which stop weeds from growing through it, meaning driveway maintenance is minimal.

There is the less popular option of a concrete driveway available to you. However, concrete driveways are known for cracking under pressure and requiring a fair amount of maintenance although the eventual result can be clean and neat.

What are the main benefits of block paving?

Block paving is a great option for those who want a driveway that matches the style of their home, or for those who want to experiment with patterns and colours for a striking effect.

It is an easily personalised option that can last for a long time if laid correctly and with the right care and attention over the following years.

Block paving is durable, and different types have different benefits – for example, clay pavers won’t fade over time, and concrete pavers come in an affordable range of styles and colours.

Who can I buy block paving from?

Block paving is such a common choice for driveways that there will be hundreds of companies all able to offer you the same service, but the prices will vary.

The cost of block paving per square metre depends mainly on the material and also how much the company chooses to charge for labour. Additionally, smaller companies tend to charge less for labour because they aren’t paying huge overheads like larger companies have to.

To make sure you get the best deal possible, fill in the form at the top of this page to access 3-4 block paving quotes from local tradesmen, history-checked and prepared to do a professional job for you.

How long will it take to lay block paving?

How long it takes to lay block paving will depend on a few factors, namely:

  • The contractors doing the job,
  • The size of the paved area,
  • The blocks being used, and,
  • The state of the ground beforehand.

Before block paving is laid, the ground must be flattened and cleared of any roots, debris, or rubble that could impede the installation process. Usually, a block paving team will dig around 8 inches below ground level, before ‘stoning’ using scalping stone. With a digger, a well organised team, and materials arriving on time, this can be achieved in around half a day for an average 55m² driveway.

For the same driveway, the entire job will vary in length depending on the style of block paving you’re using and how the weather behaves. Most skilled workers will recommend a minimum of 4-5 days to complete the whole driveway, but you’ll need to factor in the vibration plate period (1-2 days), and the period of abatement after it’s finished – block pavers need time to settle before you can drive over them.

Before I get block paving, what should I ask a potential block paver?

Before you agree to any quote you’ve been given, you should consider asking your contractor a few preliminary questions. You could ask them:

  • How long will the job take to complete?
  • How long have you been in the trade?
  • Have you been working in this area long?
  • What does the job involve, exactly?

Should my block paver be a member of anything (trade body, government organisation, etc?)

There are no qualifications required to be a block paver which means your security in the block paver’s abilities will be derived from their experience, rather than any academic accreditations or trade body membership.

However, any good block paving company should be Marshall’s Register accredited. If the contractor has a website, the logo may be displayed on their home or contact pages. Marshall’s Registered contractors are thoroughly vetted before being allowed to pay for their accreditation so you know a Marshall’s Registered block paver cares about their reputation and the face of their company.

Why should I get block paving quotes through Tradesmen Prices?

Though there are many genuine block pavers out there, some customers have, in the past, suffered at the hands of less competent tradesmen.

Getting quotes through Tradesmen Prices gives you peace of mind that the contractors who come to install your block paving:

  • Are professional and experienced
  • Will charge you a reasonable price
  • Will do the job to a high standard

Use the form below to access 3-4 quotes for the cost of block paving from local tradesmen and companies. You can use these to compare with others you may already have, which will mean you’re more likely to see a reduction in price. If a company knows you’re considering buying from someone else, they may be willing to reduce the price of their service.

Cost of building an extension

If your property could benefit from some extra space, building an extension may be the best way to do it.

The possibilities here are endless, and your extension can be made to suit your budget, location, and individual requirements. For those looking to extend their kitchens or ground floor living spaces, a single storey extension may be the solution. And for households outgrowing their bedrooms or bathrooms, an extension built on top of an existing garage or a double storey extension constructed from the ground up may be the answer.

The cost of an extension will vary depending on several factors, namely:

  • How extensive the work will be,
  • Where you live, and,
  • Who completes the work.

Using the Tradesmen Prices form at the top of this page, you can access 3-4 extension quotes from trusted tradesmen and contractors experienced in building extensions who will be able to get the work done on time, and to a high standard.

Types of Extension

There are several different types of extension and they’re generally categorised by either how much space they offer or where on the property they are situated. Bear in mind that extensions can be built to your individual needs and you may be able to combine elements of one with another to achieve your desired effect.

  • Single Storey Side or Rear Extension
    This type of extension takes up a single storey and is located either at the rear or to the side of the property.This type of extension is the most popular in the UK and is usually chosen by those who can afford to lose a few metres of their garden for the sake of extending floorspace.Roof options include either pitched or flat, though this may be affected by planning permissions, as extensions must be built in keeping with the aesthetic value of the rest of your property.
  • Double or Multi-Storey House Extension
    This type of extension offers the opportunity to open up rooms on both floors for maximised floorspace.Planning regulations are more stringent when it comes to double or multi-storey extensions, so careful consultation with neighbours ahead of the design itself is invaluable in ensuring the build can go ahead. In the UK, a double or multi-storey extension must not impede on light into a neighbour’s garden or property.Similarly, extensions which could block the view of neighbouring properties may be denied planning permission, so make sure that your architect is aware of the build limitations before they start to collaborate with you on a design.
  • Garage Conversions or Extensions
    For those with an existing garage built with a solid structure, the option of converting and/or extending the garage itself can be an attractive one.Typically, converting a garage will cost between £10,000 and £15,000 less than building a new, ground-floor extension making it a cost-effective choice for those with tighter budgets.However, it’s wise to check whether sacrificing car storage space for floorspace is worth it – though conversions undoubtedly add value to a property, you may find that where your house is located, having off-street parking will actually be of greater benefit than being able to offer an extra room.

Cost of an Extension

Extension costs vary, though it’s rare that you’ll find the price falls below £30,000. Because an extension requires a lot of work to be completed – often by a number of different contractors or tradespeople – the cost of labour can sometimes exceed that of the costs of building materials.

Below, we have listed the approximate prices you may want to consider when planning the building of a single-storey extension in a table. For estimating the cost of a double or multi-storey extension, you may wish to double the relevant costs (such as for plastering and windows.)

Work Cost
Kitchen (depending on the specification) Between £5,000 and £20,000
Bathroom (according to the fittings chosen) Between £4,500 and £11,000
Shower Room (again, depending on fittings chosen) Between £4,500 and £11,000
Flooring (these vary greatly) Usually around £25 to £100 per square metre
Walls and Ceilings (for plaster, dry-lining and paint) Around £85 per square metre
Bi-Fold/Sliding Doors Between £1,500 and £2,000 per linear metre
Heating (if you need a new boiler) Around £2,300

When budgeting for an extension, you will also need to consider the possibility of professional project fees. This is especially important if you are looking to build a double or multi-storey extension as these must be designed with stringent building regulations in mind.

For an amateur, this leaves far too much room for mistakes to be made which is why employing a professional architect and structural engineer can be invaluable to the success of your project. The costs for these can be estimated as follows:

Work Cost
Planner Drawings £2,700 – £4,000
Construction Drawings £2,700 –  £4,000
Structural Engineer £500 – £1,000
Measured Survey £500 – £1,000

Typically, professional project design fees make up around 3%-7% of the overall construction cost.

Additionally, you may need to budget for a number of planning fees, depending on your property status, location, and the regulations imposed by local authorities. These may be as follows:

Work Cost
Planning Fee for Residential Extension £206
Certificate of Lawful Development £103
Fee for Discharging Planning Conditions £28 per request
Tree Report Upwards of £800
Flood Risk Assessment (Within Flood Zones) Upwards of £800
Ecology Report (if required by Local Authority) £800+
Archaeological Report (if in area of Archaeological Interest) Up to several thousand pounds

Overall Cost of an Extension

As of last year, the estimated cost of a single-storey extension outside of London fell anywhere between £1,200 and £1,500 per metre square. In London and the South East, the same work could cost you between £1,500 and £2,000 per metre square.

Overall, this could cost you a minimum of £40,000 at the lower bracket, and £65,000 in London, at the upper bracket.

Two-storey extensions, unsurprisingly, can cost much more. As a general rule, adding 50% of the cost of a single-storey extension will give you the approximate price of a double storey extension, built to your standards and desired finish.

Add 10% for professional fees and VAT, and for the example mentioned before, a double storey extension could cost you upwards of £76,000.

In London and the South East, expect this price to rise by an additional 30-50%.

Garage conversions, on the other hand, tend to be far cheaper. This is because instead of constructing an entirely new structure from the ground up, you’re building onto an existing structure.

If you budget correctly, and work goes to plan, your new garage conversion may cost as little as £10,000. Extending a garage or building on top of it, however, brings you back into single-storey extension territory, and will certainly cost more if the existing garage is structurally unsound.

Extension Cost FAQ 

Why would someone want an extension?

Often, extensions are built for one of two reasons. Either;

  • The homeowner wants more space, or,
  • The homeowner wants to add value to their property.

Depending on the extent of your extension project, the cost will vary greatly, but it can increase the value of your home by up to 5-10%. This makes the extension a cost-effective investment, especially if you’re in the process of renovating your home in order to sell it in the near future.

What are the disadvantages of building an extension?

Though the advantages of building an extension are numerous, you may find there are drawbacks, too.

When building a rear extension, you may lose valuable garden or patio space. Additionally, if the extension is built without consulting your neighbours, the design or size could cause conflict between yourself and those who live adjacent to you.

Avoid this by involving neighbours in the design process so they can voice any concerns they may have regarding the proposed build. Sorting out concerns prior to building is preferable to having them file a complaint when you apply for planning permission.

Are there alternatives to building an extension?

You may wish to convert an existing loft into an additional living space, instead of building an extension. Similarly, converting an existing garage (instead of extending it, or building on top) can increase the value of your property for a lower overall cost.

Find the cost of a garage conversion here and the cost of a loft conversion here.

[note: link to articles we have already written on these topics]

What are the main benefits of building an extension?

When building an extension, you benefit from a number of advantages.

Firstly, the cost of an extension is far less than the cost of moving to a new house. Often, households which start to outgrow their existing properties look at moving to a new house as a space-creating solution, but this costs them far more in the long run. Building an extension is a sizable investment but it is an economic choice in comparison to moving to a new property altogether.

Additionally, building an extension allows for personalisation during construction – this is something that moving to a new property cannot offer. When extending your home with an extension, you benefit from overseeing the design, size, and even the contractors themselves.

Finally, extending your home means you can increase the value of your property. An extension completed to a high standard can add value to your home, often by 5-10% at point-of-sale. Accessing quotes through Tradesmen Prices ensures the work completed is done to an exceptionally high standard. Please see the form at the top of this page.

Will I need planning permission to build an extension?

Most double and multi-storey extensions will require planning permission, though you may wish to check for single storey builds, too.

You will need planning permission if the build itself:

  • Covers more than 50% of the land surrounding your home
  • Is towards a road
  • Is built from materials which differ from those used in the existing style of your house
  • Increases the overall height of the building
  • Will include a balcony or raised veranda
  • Extends more than six metres from the back wall of an attached house
  • Extends more than eight metres from the back wall of a detached house
  • Is taller than four metres
  • Is more than half the width of your house

Hiring a professional architect or designer to ensure you stay within the Permitted Development guidelines will save you time, money, and stress.

Should my extension builder be a member of anything (trade body, government registration scheme, etc?) What sort of questions should I be asking them?

Because an extension project requires the specialist skills of a number of different types of contractor, there are several bases you’ll need to cover when you’re making sure that they’re the right people for the job.

Type of Contractor Accreditation Questions to ask
Builder N/A Ask about their public liability insurance, and the timescale for bricklaying and foundation digging. You may also wish to enquire about how much they’re paying for supplies.
Electrician Check for their name on the Registered Competent Person Scheme. Can you provide me with a BS7671 test certificate once you’re done so I can pass Building Regulations?
Gas Engineer Check to see if they’re APHC or CIPHE registered, and if they’re working with gas, that they’re a Gas Safe Registered engineer. Where is the best place to put a heater or radiator?
Plumber Check to see if they’re APHC or CIPHE registered, or similar. How long will rerouting pipework take? Will we have access to running water in other parts of the house during this time?
Plasterer They may be a British Gypsum Certified Plasterer. How long will it take to skim the walls (if applicable)?

How long does it take to build an extension?

Depending on the extent of your extension project, and who is doing the work, the length of time taken to complete the work will vary.

When building an extension from the ground up, there are several steps involved. These may take up to two weeks each to complete. Often, delays occur which can halt work for an unexpected length of time, so it’s crucial to ensure communication between yourself and your contractors is effective and timely in order to avoid this happening.

The typical extension process is as follows:

  • Week 1 – Preparation
  • Week 2 – Foundations and Groundwork
  • Week 3 – Ground and Low-Level Work
  • Week 5-6 – Walls (Internal and External)
  • Week 7 – Building of Roof Structure
  • Week 8 – Laying of Roof Covering
  • Week 9-10 – Windows, Doors, Guttering, and Render
  • Week 11-12 – Knocking Through Existing Wall and Plastering
  • Week 13 – Final Work E.g. Flooring, Electrics, Plumbing, Painting and Decorating
  • Week 14 – Garden Work and Finishing

An extension of any size will usually take a minimum of three months to complete and will cause a disruption to your home life, so be sure to consider this when deciding whether to have one built.

Why should I get extension quotes from Tradesmen Prices?

Building an extension requires a high level of accuracy in the design and construction process – after all, it will form a new part of your home which you’ll likely be using every day. Because of this, it’s important to find contractors who will complete the work necessary to the highest standards possible without having to pay more than you need to.

Shopping around for contractors means you’ll be able to access the best prices possible for your extension, but it can be exhausting having to manually trawl through quote after quote.

By using the form below, you can receive 3-4 quotes from reliable, honest tradespeople who will be able to undertake the work involved in constructing your extension.

Tradesmen Prices checks the credibility of these contractors before we allow them to receive quote requests through us, so you can rest assured you’ll be put in touch with verified local tradespeople, whose quotes you can compare against each other to find the best price possible.